North Sulawesi: Land of the Minahasans - from incredible coral reefs to active volcanoes!

 

Our exploration of this interesting Indonesian island began – where else, than on the small island of Bunaken, which lies in the immediate vicinity of the city of Manado, in the north of Sulawesi. The Indonesian Sea, where two oceans and two continents intertwine, is an epicenter of biological diversity. Nowhere in the world can so many different ocean species be found than in Indonesia and it’s immediate surroundings. We can’t wait to dive in and discover them. 20 euros is enough for a friendly local to take us by boat to one of the most beautiful coral reefs in the world.

‘Sea Garden Resort’ is a small and cozy dive resort with comfortable traditional style cottages set in a tropical garden. The resort is right next to Pangalisang Beach on the east coast of Bunaken Island. It offers Indonesian-style bungalows and two spacious family houses with sea views. The family houses are Minahasa in style, and have two floors, each with it’s own a bedroom and private bathroom. They are perfect accomodation for a small family or group of travelers. Each room has its own entrance and a veranda with a sea view. At the resort, you can rent full snorkel equipment, and hire a boat to take you to other parts of the coral reef.

We didn’t need to borrow masks or fins, and we didn’t even rent a boat. We prepared and brought all the equipment we needed with us. Soon after arriving at the ‘Sea arden’ we took a dip in the warm, Indonesian sea. We were greeted with a treasure trove of underwater life. Shoals of colorful fish gleamed as they darted between the coral outcroppings, while stalwart starfish basked in the depths. We explored every inch of the reef we visited. From the sandy shores and mangrove plantations to the edge of the sea shelf where a vertical underwater plummet led to a dark, watery abyss. As the coral reef revealed more and more beauty, our hearts filled with wonder and gratitude for being lucky enough to witness this hidden part of the underwater world.

There are four main species of sea turtles which inhabit the Bunaken Marine Park: the green turtle, the hawksbill turtle, the leatherback, and the loggerhead. Usually, the former two are the most common to see during any dive.

The edge of the coral reef hides another interesting inhabitant. White-finned sharks also rose from the black depths of the ocean to greet us. As they ascended between the cavities of the vertical coral wall, they regarded the surface with curiosity, yet displaying fatigue. We watched them in awe, and were excited by the opportunity to see them in their natural environment, we counted the specimens that swam below us.

The underwater world of the coral reef is beautiful, but it’s time to dry off and explore Bunaken Island itself. Pathways connect the various settlements around Bunaken and many are effectively impassable after rain. There are no cars on the island, so motorbikes and boats are the only available means of transportation. You can explore the island on foot or you can take a boat between dive sites. After about 20 minutes of walking, we arrived at a small village located in the southern part of the island. We were met by very friendly villagers who often turned their heads inquisitivelty after us. We of course obliged the locals, took pictures here and there and explained where we came from.

One last look at the incredible island that has hosted us for a week and we are back on a boat. Our journey took around 15 minutes by sea, and was followed by a further 2 hours by car on winding, narrow roads through small villages and mysterious Indonesian forests. The landscape is as beautiful as ever and every now and then you catch a glimpse of mighty volcanic peaks that rise mysteriously above the green surroundings. We drive to the Tangkoko Nature Reserve, which will be our temporary home for the next week. Tangkoko Sanctuary Villa is located atop a beautiful hill overlooking Tangkoko Mountain and is less than 5 minutes drive from the entrance of Tangkoko Nature Reserve. We settled comfortably into a two-story villa with a breathtaking view of the forest and hills right from the comfort of our bed.

Tangkoko Nature Reserve  is a nature reserve in the northern part of Sulawesi island, 70 kilometres from Manado City. The reserve covers an area of nearly 9000 hectares, and includes three mountains: Mount Tangkoko, Mount Dua Saudara, and Mount Batuangus. As soon as we arrived in the forest, we were greeted by curious and playful black macaques. A large group joined us on our exploration of the forest, some watching us from afar, with others curiously approaching. All of them accompanied us during our walk through Sulawesi’s unspoiled nature.

Though the cute black macaques accompanied us on the ground during our walk through the forest, a look high into the canopy revealed another endemic and unusual animal. The native Cuscus bear is another species which is endemic to Sulawesi and the nearby islands. They live in tropical moist lowland forest at a maximum altitude of 600 meters above sea level Cuscusbears and are mainly diurnal animals.

A few steps away, we discovered a nest high up inside a tree trunk. Before long, we heard rustling and a stunning adult hornbill swooped in to return to it’s young. The Hornbill chick was waiting for its mother’s return, and proceeded to dine on the gift she had brought it.

As we walked, we saw more black macaques, Cuscus bears and hornbills and many other types of birds, even a large lizard crossed our path during exploration. One unique animal we had hoped to see in Tangkoko Forest, also endemic and very rare, did not appear. To catch a glimpse of the remarkable Tarsius, we needed to return, but this time under the cover of darkness.

Tarsius monkeys are the smallest, and perhaps cutest, primates in the world. They grow to between 10 and 15 cm in height, and up to 80 grams in weight. They are so tiny that one could fit easily in the palm of your hand. Their saucer like eyes, disporortionately large compared to their bodies due to being nocturnal, stare deep into your own. Its most outstanding feature, however, is that the Tarsius is the most faithful animal in existence. A Tarsius will take one and one mate only throughout its entire life, even if its mate dies, a Tarsius will not take another.

Everywhere you turned, the landmass was draped in densely overgrown tropical greenery. This was occasionally ruptured by a mysterious and mighty volcanic peak, an ancient testament to a cataclysmic tectonic shift. We resolved to explore the trove of natural riches and cultural heritage at our fingertips even more deeply, and Sakar, our guide through the forests of Tangkoka, would also be our chauffeur and tour guide as we travelled deeper into North Sulawesi. Our first adventure into this part of Sulawesi was to witness something truly sacred. We were about to meet the ancestors of this mystical place – the Warugas.

Our next stop was the small town of Tomohon, which lies in the shadow of the picturesque, but active volcano Lokon. We were mainly looking forward to the local market, which in the past would often offer many shocking scenes. Locals would have sold and eaten bats, rats, macaques and sometimes cats and dogs in a market such as this.

Satisfied that we didn’t see anything extreme, save for some dried rats, we went onwards. Our route led us through quaint little villages like Tomohon and Rurukan all the way to the Mahawu stratovolcano, which is located to the east of the Lokon-Empung volcano.

Ancient cemetery, market, volcano, charming Indonesian villages, and so much walking up and down. We’ve already seen a lot and it feels like time to slow down and have lunch. Our next stop is the great Tondano Lake, which in addition to the fantastic view, is home to a bounty of Indonesian food, served by authentic local restaurants built directly on the shimmering blue surface.

Our next port of call was another body of water on the outskirts of Tomohon, which was much smaller, but no less interesting. Known among the locals as the “Lake of Three Colors”, we finally reached Lake Linow. As we drew closer to the shoreline, a pungent aroma began to fill our nostrils. The sulphur within the water here is particularly concentrated and the smell of rotten eggs hangs thickly in the air. The chemical composition of this landmark results in frequent and dramatic colour changes of the water, and Linow is known to change between red, dark green and deep blue in appearence. On the distant shoreline, we can see several hydrothermal vents spewing hot gasses into the atmosphere.

We have seen so much. We know that we have barely scratched the surface of what North Sulawesi has to offer, but what we were lucky enough to experience will forever remain in our memories. Sadly, our time in this amazing land is slowly running out, and only one more destination remains, from which we will head home. We come to the end of our journey in Sulawesi on a six-hectare property surrounded by lush greenery on the outskirts of Manado. Grand Hotel Luley is an idyllic retreat set against the ever watchful backdrop of Bunaken National Park.

From a desolate stretch of white sand just 20 years ago, Grand Luley hotel’s coastline has now become home to many mangroves and wildlife. The hotel grounds are now a haven for ocean doves, kingfishers and, more recently, rare species of tarsiers. The mangrove garden is now the epicenter of Luley’s ecosystem and living proof that no matter how small our actions are, they have a direct impact on our environment.